The overlooked link: Integrating textiles into the discussion of the petrochemical industry

World leaders, industry executives, and concerned citizens from across the world have gathered in Geneva to continue to negotiate a Global Plastics Treaty. The Intergovernmental Negotiating Committee (INC) for the treaty was created by the UN Environment Program to develop a global agreement to reduce plastic pollution. The first INC meeting took place in Uruguay in late 2022. The Geneva negotiations are expected to be the final negotiations before the committee produces a final draft.

The treaty is designed to deal with the life cycle of plastics, from production through recycling and waste reduction, but it misses a large and growing segment of the petrochemical sector: the textile industry. Petrochemicals, derived from fossil fuels such as oil and natural gas, form the building blocks of products that are ubiquitous in modern life—plastics, fertilizers, detergents, adhesives, and synthetic fibers among other commodities. In 2024, the global petrochemical market value was $650 to $660 billion. Petrochemicals account for 16% of the global oil demand and are projected to grow to 50% of oil demand by 2050, according to the International Energy Agency. 

The textile industry is deeply integrated into the petrochemical value chain. Synthetic fibers, particularly polyester (55%), nylon (5%), and acrylic (2%) account for almost two-thirds of global textile production. The fibers are derived from key petrochemicals such as ethylene, paraxylene, and terephthalic acid, which are byproducts of crude oil refining. Polyester, derived from ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, is the most widely used fiber globally, representing more than 80% of synthetic fiber production and more than 55% of all fiber production. The global polyester fiber market was valued at $100 billion in 2022 and is projected to exceed $150 billion by 2030. Thus, textiles represent a significant downstream application of petrochemicals. Some estimates suggest that between 10% and 15% of total petrochemical output is used in fiber and fabric production, making it a critical part of the petrochemical sector.

Synthetic textiles represent a critical nexus between the petrochemical industry and plastic pollution. As demand for synthetic fibers grows and oil producers seek alternative markets, the risk of pollution from textiles intensifies. Despite this impact, synthetic textiles have historically been excluded from most international legal frameworks addressing plastic pollution. The current drafts of the UN Global Plastics Treaty have yet to firmly establish textiles as a priority sector. This substantial omission not only limits the effectiveness of anti-pollution strategies but also allows a key petrochemical outlet to escape regulation. Without textile integration, efforts to cap plastic production may be circumvented by companies redirecting output to fiber manufacturing.

The treaty’s success depends on its comprehensiveness. Including textiles is essential to meeting the environmental, legal, and economic objectives, envisioned by the treaty.